Days 2/3, September 10-11, Interrail days 2+3, Paris-Matera,
train-train-train-[train]-train-train-train
TGV 9551, the 0905 from Paris GdE to Heidelberg, though we’re only going as
far as Mannheim. This is the start of the longest continuous train trip
we’ve ever been on, from here to the south of Italy.
We’re on the top deck of the TGV Duplex facing backwards. We stopped
unexpectedly at Champagne-Ardenne and the PIS shows all the subsequent
stops as being +5 minutes, and our speed now as between 314 and 319 km/h,
198 mph. Forbach and Saarbruecken are each exactly 5 minutes late. It’s
interesting how the OHLE changes as you cross the border; I-beam columns
and register arms on the French side, lattice columns and headspans - great
big headspans! - in Germany.
We arrive in Mannheim on time at 1218. We switch platform to catch the
1230 ICE4 to Munich. It’s a 12-coach version - coaches 1-7, 9-12 and 14.
We’re sitting in seats marked BahnBonus on the reservation panel and
according to Reddit it seems that if someone with a BahnBonus card comes
along we should move, but the comments say no one ever does. At Stuttgart
the train gets less busy, we switch to table seats facing the new direction
of travel and get some lunch from the Bordrestaurant. It has quite an
impressive menu, belied by the almost empty cabinet under the counter.
Between Stuttgart and Augsburg there’s some fabulous scenery, including a
wonderful horseshoe curve at Geislingen, much of which is now bypassed by a
new line which, of course, our ICE takes. There are still some good views
of wooded hills and valleys, some filled with mist and rain.
We arrive at Munich Hbf, struggle with currency and toilets until we spot
the tiny contactless pad on the turnstile and then spend a pleasant few
hours wandering around and getting some dinner. Then back to the Hbf for
our bijou sleeperette.
This is where things begin to get weird. Our train is NJ295, the 20:10 to
Roma Tiburtina, arriving 11:05 tomorrow. We’re in one of ÖBB’s new sleeper
carriages, in a double ensuite room. The train has PIS screens at the ends
of the corridor which say it’s going to arrive in Roma Termini, two miles
beyond Tiburtina, at 09:10. The steward assures us that the train is
definitely not going to Termini. That’s OK, we’re expecting to make our
own way from Tiburtina to Termini.
The train formation is interesting. At the front as it arrives at the Hbf
terminal platform is an ÖBB Taurus loco with about 5 carriages which is
NJ2295 for La Spezia. Behind that is a driving carriage facing the same
direction and then NJ295 with another Taurus on what will shortly be the
front of the train. The sun’s just gone down as we’re waiting and we set
off on time in the gathering dark.
The cabin is tiny. We just about find room for our luggage (a small
suitcase, a larger wheeled bag and daysacks). Anyone with those wardrobes
on wheels that some tourists seem to wander around with would be hard
pressed to fit it in, especially if they wanted to open the door to the en
suite. The en suite is has a toilet and WHB, but the WHB also has a shower
head on a flexible hose, and a clip up on the wall, and it’s constructed
like a wet room with a lip at the doorway. I stub my toe on the lip a
couple of times. The cabin is not advertised as having a shower and we
don’t have the opportunity to try it out as such, as you’ll see. We do
have a breakfast menu; you choose up to 6 items on the list and they are
provided at 08:00 or thereabouts.
There is a comprehensive lighting control panel and individual berth
lights. You can control brightness and colour of the main cabin lighting.
We retire early. I’m in the top bunk which has a rather nice ladder built
into the wall, but the headroom is low and it requires some degree of
agility to get in and out. The berth has a thinnish foam mattress which is
*almost* good enough to let me sleep on my side without feeling I’ve
bruised my hip after three or four hours.
At 22:19 the cabin lights come on spontaneously at full brightness for the
third time. This time we can’t seem to turn them off. I search out a
steward who doesn’t have much English but another passenger is complaining
as well and the steward seems to be saying it will be sorted. The
overnight gift pack helpfully contains an eyeshade as well as slippers and
water. We managed to turn the lights off again after a few minutes but
they came on again at around 0200 and 0300 when we stopped, probably at
Villach, a major rail hub in Austria, and at Tarvisio on the Italian side
of the border. I should have clocked at this point that we were running
somewhat late - we should have been at Villach around midnight - but I
assumed we’d be fine. We reversed direction at some point too, probably at
Villach, but the top bunk has no view, despite having a decorative panel
that looks rather like a window blind.
Breakfast arrived at about 0815. My wife had used the bathroom and had got
dressed but I was still in pyjamas. At about 0830 we arrived at Firenze S
M N, a terminus. At 0845 the steward comes to tell us that the train is no
longer going to go to Rome. Cue rapid ablutions, dressing and packing. We
leap off and head down the platform. The train we’ve just got off is now
the rear portion of a double set with two driving carriages facing each
other in the middle. Half way down the platform we are met by a Trenitalia
lady who asks if we’re going to Rome. We say yes and she directs us to the
next train at the adjoining platform, carriages 7-11, sit in any free seat.
That turns out to be the 0914 Frecciarossa ETR 500 to Salerno, next stop
Roma Tiburtina and then Roma Termini where we want to go anyway. We’ll end
up getting there at 10:49, before we were due to be at Tiburtina anyway.
If the sleeper had carried on we might have had trouble getting to Termini
in time for our next train. At times the high speed track we are on
parallels what is probably the classic line to Rome.
Roma Termini is a confusingly signed station. We manage. We decide a
couple of hours isn’t enough to stash our luggage and explore Rome so we
sit in a station cafe, read books and try to find the station toilets. I
told you the signs were confusing.
Our next train is Frecciargento 8311, the 1305 to Bari Centrale, arr 17:14.
It’s one of the ETR460 family, one of the earlier generation of Pendolino
with the squared off nose. It’s showing its age a bit but it’s fairly
comfortable. The platform sign says 15 minutes delay and may have said we
were waiting for an incoming service, but my Italian is almost nonexistent
and the sign wasn’t up long enough for Google Translate to grab it. We
leave at 13:27. As we leave the station it rains. It’s been almost
totally clear skies so far today. The rain stops almost immediately.
The FA ride is quite lively, more so than the FR or the sleeper, though
that got livelier as we moved south so it may be to do with track
maintenance levels rather than the rolling stock. The FR and FA have PIS
screens at the end of the carriage but, unlike the TGV and ICE4, they are
too small to read from more than couple of seats away. We travel down the
west side of Italy, down broad valleys with impressive hills and mountains
to the east. We can’t see to the west because everyone on that side has
the blinds down to keep the sun out. At around Caserta we turn inland and
the route becomes hilly and twisty. Between there and Beneventura they
seem to be building a new railway alongside the old one, with new grade and
viaducts and, at one point, a tunnel portal built against the side of the
hill, which is yet to be excavated. The woods are green but all the fields
are brown; almost all are steep and some are vertiginous.
Both the FR and FA have staff aboard to service the toilets and of course
there’s a litter bin at every table. Under acceleration the fluorescent(?)
lights under the FA’s luggage racks flicker on and off randomly, and the
automatic doors don’t always work with either the proximity sensors or the
buttons. It’s reasonably roomy, fairly low seat backs and like the FR all
the seats align with the windows. This feels a little more roomy than the
FR but it’s not as good as the ICE4.
We reversed at Foggia, about 15 minutes behind time, and arrived at Bari
shortly after our due time of 1714. At this point our Interrail passes
stop being any use, but I buy reservations for one of the trains later on
in our return journey, which are only available from a station and not
online.
The tracks of the extensive FS station at Bari are at ground level. Next
door to it, in a trench, are the parallel tracks of the Ferrovia Nord
Barese, but we pass that terminus in the station square and move on to the
next station, the FAL, the Ferrovie Appulo-Lucano, whose tracks are
parallel but elevated. We are waiting to catch the 1809 to Matera,
changing at Altamura (3 minutes!). We’ve been warned by the members of our
party who came via Rome, and are a couple of hours in front of us, that the
change involves exiting the station and going round by the road because one
of the platforms is being worked on. It’s pretty much dark by the time we
get to Altamura but we follow the herd off one articulated 3-car diesel set
and onto another the same. We arrive in Matera about 15 minutes after our
scheduled time of 1953, having paid a princely EUR 6 for a nearly 2 hour
journey.
And that’s almost it for our outbound journey, 35 hours after leaving
Paris, and almost exactly 24 hours from Munich. Our friends left Edinburgh
for Rome a couple of hours before us (though they left home quite a while
before that!) and spent a couple of days in Rome.